I asked Kubota-san why the ‘dip’ in the middle and he explained to me that I should rub the brush 50 times FLAT. We concluded that that area had the most contact with the sharkskin. Problems: The middle of the brush had a slight dip. I also diagnosed the softness of the tips by rubbing it against my cheek. To consider when to stop, look for a light brown color developing on the face of the brush- an almost velvety look indicative of a well-conditioned brush. If only i would workĪfter doing the ~30 initial strokes to roughen up, I finally was able to feel the hairs ‘grip’ the sharkskin- really grip them. I did successfully rip the tip of my finger open which got me a little mad, but this also got me thinking: I needed to rip the hairs just as I did my finger. I wasn’t able to get anywhere for many hours. When I was shown the process by experience printers in Japan, I aped what I saw. If hairs protrude, it’s best to trim them with scissors rather than pulling them out since tightly-packed hairs are what’s keeping them in the brush.It should produce a kinda gross brown powder build-up.It helps me to support the brush hairs from the back with my thumbs to make sure a strong contact against the sharkskin or sandpaper is made. Then on the side fins, vigorously grind the brushes in short, hard strokes pushing the hairs so that you can feel the hairs grab.Hold the brush flat and push from the tail to the head in long strokes in North>South>East>West degrees for about 50 strokes each direction.Dampen the brush ends- I use a plate to pick up a few droplets of water.The technique that works best for me is to: I’ve seen folks use powered machinery, but this really isn’t that much work to me. 90-grit sandpaper can also work if you don’t have access- large sanding belts provide a longer surface to use. This angel shark skin features thousands of serrated tooth-like dermal denticles. Shark skins have unique properties and are valued by craftspeople for a number of purposes. Some folks simply trim with scissors although I find that the melting technique is a bit quicker and easier to be consistent. I made my own setup to fit on top of an electric element. The traditional way is to melt the hairs using a hotplate. Flattening bottom of the brushĪfter you get a new brush, the next step is to form it (see brush profile pic above). I was able to compare the “pre-conditioned” brushes from Matsumura and the ones at the print studio and the latter were noticeably softer. Usually, mokuhanga requires smooth pigment application, so to get the best of both worlds, the tips need to be softened by a mechanical process of rubbing along a rough surface (sharkskin, ‘dragonskin’, coarse sandpaper, etc.). On the other hand, a firm, stiff hair leaves a streak. Printing brushes ( maru and hanga bake) have stiff hairs for a reason- you need the firmness to move pigment and paste around the blocks. So to that end, here are a few things to consider… Printing Brush Prep And he is right as evidenced by his, and others’ work and innovations. One advantage is to think outside the box”. I apologize in advance if you already know these things… That said, Dave Bull would regularly remind me : “There are often more ways than one to do these things- you should look, listen, and try one way and then another, and then compare the results. To add context, please refer to ’s extensive Encyclopedia entries. The pages are just like a blog.Warning: This chapter contains a lot of geeky, technical information often going beyond the basics of Japanese-style printmaking. You don’t have to be a member of Facebook to view those pages and you won’t be bothered by unwanted content. The two Facebook buttons will take you to public pages relating to my art work or my woodwork and carpentry. Finally there is a page about wood engraving. In addition, prints made with the drypoint technique and etchings from copper or zinc plate using various techniques. You will find information about Linocut prints and prints made by combining linoleum and plywood blocks. The photos, text and explanations show how to make such a Moku Hanga woodcut. The steps are illustrated in various ways and will make more sense if you decide to make a print yourself. This website is about many forms of graphic art.Įxplore the menu to find out about creating woodcut prints, made mainly along the traditional Japanese style called “Moku Hanga” with some modifications, as well as western style woodblock prints. Projects completed since coming to France.Woodwork, Carpentry, ébénisterie, Hout bewerking.Houtzaag en Koren Molen Agneta in Ruurlo.
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